Paris off the beaten track- walking tours and museum visits

News

2011-09-10T23:23:00.000-07:00

Matisse, Cézanne, Picasso… The Stein Family

Grand Palais 5 October 2011 – 16 January 2012

An exhibition organized by the Rmn-Grand Palais, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. On show in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art from 21 May to 6 September 2011, and will be shown at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York from 1st February to 3 June 2012.

Barefoot in their Delphic sandals, they raised scientific brows to the sky. Apollinaire [about the Steins], October 1907

The Steins, an American family, moved to Paris in the early 20th century: Gertrude, an avant-garde writer, set up house with her brother Leo, in the rue de Fleurus; her elder brother Michael took a flat with his wife Sarah in the rue Madame. They were the first people to buy Matisses and Picassos and they also received the entire avant-garde into their homes and thus built up one of the most astonishing collections of modern art. The exhibition looks at the history of this out-of-the-ordinary family. It shows how important its patronage was for the artists and how it helped establish a new standard of taste in modern art, through Leo’s view of the sources of modernity and his exchanges with the intellectuals of the time; Gertrude’s friendship with Picasso; Sarah’s relations with Matisse; and the projects that Gertrude developed with artists in the 20s and 30s. It is a major exhibition bringing together an outstanding ensemble of works from the Steins’ various collections: Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Matisse, Manguin, Bonnard, Vallotton, Laurencin, Gris, Masson, Picabia…. The eight sections shed light on all the members of the family: Leo, Sarah and Michael, and Gertrude.

I “The Big Four”: Manet, Renoir, Degas and Cezanne, the Pillars of Modern Art. Leo Stein, a young American fascinated by European art, moved to Paris in 1902 and developed his eye through discussions with theorists and art historians such as Berenson and attending exhibitions in Paris at the beginning of the century. He formed his own collection based on a specific aesthetic: Manet, Degas, Renoir and Cézanne were the pillars of modern art.

II The Classical Tradition vs Modernity. Leo, joined by his sister, Gertrude, and then by his brother Michael and his wife Sarah, was the impetus behind their first purchases, which showed a taste for a classical form of modernity, descending from Manet and great Italian painting: Manguin, Vallotton, Maurice Denis, and Picassos from the blue and pink periods. He put together an astonishing collection on the classical theme of the reclining nude – including Matisse’s masterlyBlue Nude, Souvenir of Biskra – which reminded him of the powerful scheme of Urbino’s Venus, revisited by Manet’sOlympia.

III The “Fauve” Revelation, 1905 Salon d’Automne. Leo bought Matisse’s La Femme au chapeau (Woman in a Hat), which had caused a scandal at the 1905 Salon d’Automne. It was emblematic of the Steins’ avant-garde approach to collecting. Sarah next bought Matisse’s La Raie verte (The Green Line), another of the misunderstood masterpieces from the mythical Salle des Fauves.

2009-02-08T09:16:00.001-08:00

MUSEUMS

2008-12-31T23:30:00.000-08:00

The LOUVRE shows 35,000 works of art. Explore the works on display and follow a theme or take a CLASSIC TOUR: If it's your first visit to the world's biggest museum it is important to get a sense of orientation and see the famous masterpieces such as the three famous ladies: the Venus de Milo, the Victory of Samotrace and the Monna Lisa. We will (re) discover these and other major works. For visitors who have been to the Louvre before, themed tours could be more interesting...

2/ IT'S ALL ABOUT PAINTING A "painting visit" is a great way to explore the encyclopaedic scope of the Museum, encompassing every European School from the 13th century to 1848.

3/ FROM THE PALACE TO THE MUSEUM A tour about history and architecture of the building. For seven hundred years the Louvre constituted one of the principal residences of the Kings of France. Our tour will take us to all the different parts of the palace, from the medieval basements to the 20th century Pyramid. We will visit the Decorative Arts Department and the Apollo Treasure Gallery. The decorative arts are the furnishing of the Palace that Kings used not only to decorate but as a means of affirming the monarchy and displaying the Kings power.

2008-12-31T02:04:00.004-08:00

MUSÉE D'ORSAY One of the most important museums in Paris is housed in the former Orsay train station redesigned by italien architect Gay Aulenti.

French paintings, sculptures and furniture dating back to the years 1848 to 1914 are shown. Works by the leading Impressionists, Monet, Manet Renoir, etc., and paintings by Van Gogh, Gauguin and Cézanne are a few of the attractions that make this museum one of the top must-sees in Paris.

2008-12-31T02:04:00.003-08:00

The MUSÉE RODIN, housed in the beautiful Mansion "Hôtel Biron" shows Auguste Rodin's major works. His most famous sculptures in marble, The kiss, Danaïd..., the bronzes, the Gates of Hell, The Thinker... the Monument to the Burghers of Calais...but also lesser known drawings, engravings and paintings by the artist.

2008-12-31T02:04:00.001-08:00

The CENTRE POMPIDOU houses more than 60,000 Artworks from the XX and XXI century and is one of the most important collections of modern art in Europe The centre's architects, Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco Franchini designed the building which was inaugurated in 1972 on the lines of an "evolving spatial diagram". Colour-coded ducts are attached to the outside of the building: blue for air; green for fluids; yellow for electricity cables; and red for movement and flow (elevators) and safety (fire extinguishers).

The priority was to maximise functional movement and flow, freeing up internal space by building the ducts and conveyance systems (stairs, elevators etc.) on the outside. The Pompidou “revolutionized" museums, transforming what had once been elite monuments into popular places of social and cultural exchange, woven into the heart of the city.

2008-12-30T22:55:00.001-08:00

MUSÉE MARMOTTAN The splendid 19th century Residence in the elegant 16th Quarter of Paris, features a collection of a hundred Impressionist works by Monet, Morisot, Degas, Manet and Renoir, as well as the Wildenstein collection of illuminated manuscripts.

The MUSÉE DE L'ORANGERIE was recently described as "unique in its genre". The Museum was chosen and arranged by Claude Monet to showcase his masterpieces.

Along with the huge "Nymphéas"- the haven of peaceful meditation, the Orangerie offers a fabulous concentration of masterpieces. The Walter/Guillaume Collection is a highly original insight into modern art featuring Cézanne, Renoir, Picasso, Rousseau, Mattisse, Modigliani, Soutine, Utrillo and Laurencin.

2008-12-30T22:27:00.003-08:00

The MUSÉE PICASSO is located in the Hôtel Salé in the Marais district. The Mansion that houses the collection was built in 1656 It is considered to be one of the finest historic houses in the Marais. It houses a large fine collection of Picasso paintings and sculptures.

2008-12-30T22:27:00.001-08:00

MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS Boasting some 150,000 objects, the collections offer us a privileged view onto the French art of living and their "savoir-faire". Classic and themed tours can be arranged.

MUSÉE JACQUEMART-ANDRÉ Discover a splendid 19th century residence close to the Champs Elysées, this museum is housed in the magnificently built and decorated former residence Mr. and Mrs. Jacquemart-André. Their collection includes mostly Italian Renaissance works (Boticelli, Uccello, Bellini...) as well as 17th and 18th century works from the Flemish (Rembrandt, Van Dyck...) and French Schools. There are also some beautiful pieces of valuable furniture, tapestries and 18th century paintings from the English School.

MUSÉE NISSIM CAMODO One of the most sumptuous private homes from the early twentieth century. It houses the finest 18th century collection of French furniture and art objects in Paris. The home is fully preserved in its original condition. Antique woodwork serves as a backdrop to furniture by cabinetmakers and joiners working for the royal Furniture Repository. Sculptures and paintings reflect the collector's sensibilities, with busts by Houdon, portraits by Elisabeth Vigée Lebrun, landscapes by Guardi and hunting scenes by Oudry...

GOURMETS TOURS

2008-12-30T22:26:00.003-08:00

OYSTERS OR TRUFFLES? There is no need to consider calories when you combine fine French food with a good walk! We explore a number of neighbourhoods to visit parisian markets and food shops . You will get an overview of French culinary habits, a description of any seasonal events taking place at the time of your tour and an introduction to selected specialities in the shops. You will get to know how french specialities are produced, how to choose and store the produce, and how to prepare your own gourment recipes. We will taste wines and cheeses and depending on your taste, either oysters or truffle specialities. At the Madeleine area we will visit the world famous gourmet stores: Fauchon and Hediard and try a selection of their "petits-four" pastries.

WALKINGTOURS

2008-12-30T22:26:00.001-08:00

- ORIENTATION WALK

- QUARTIER-LATIN

- ISLE DE LA CITÉ

- MONTMARTRE

- MARAIS

- SAINT GERMAIN

- MONTPARNASSE

"ORIENTATION WALK" is the classic walk to start with. It offers a complete overview of Paris. The major sites in citycenter are covered and you leave with a great sense of orientation . Starting at Notre Dame, the cathedral's history, architecture - St. Chapelle - Louvre Museum - Musée d'Orsay - Place de la Concorde, grandest square in France - Champs Elysée, the most famous avenue and seat of beautiful 18th century mansions - Pont Alexander III -- the beautiful baroque complex of the "Hôtel des Invalides" topped wit a golden dome over the Napoleons Tomb. And last not least a glance at the Eiffel Tower.

2008-12-30T22:25:00.001-08:00

QUARTIER LATIN AND ILE DE LA CITÉ The Walk takes us through 2000 years of Parisian history and touches on everything from Roman ruins to student nightlife... Notre Dame, St. Chapelle, Sorbonne University,the beautiful Luxembourg gardens and the renaissance Luxembourg Palace, Pantheon, Conciergerie, Cluny Museum, the "village" with some of the oldest buildings in town and Place St. Michel the heartbeat of the student area.

MONTMARTRE The outing explores the rich artistic history of the area. Sacré Coeur Basilica, which dominates the Parisian skyline, the original romain church of Montmartre: St. Pierre, Place du Tertre - the charming artists square where works are painted and sold on the spot - Moulin Rouge, famed cabaret immortalized by the works of Toulouse Lautrec - Van Gogh's House - Picasso's Studio - The Dali Museum, home to over 300 of his original works - the Montmartre Vineyards. The Montmartre Cemetery, final resting place of many famous people - "Le Lapin Agile" well known haunt of the resident artists who lived in Montmartre in the early 1900's - the Windmills, painted many times by impressionist painters - the secret Montmartre, its picturesque alleys, hidden gardens...

MARAIS This district preserves the narrow streets and architectural styles of Medieval and Renaissance-era Paris. Most of Paris was overhauled in the mid-19th century under the direction of Napoleon III and architect Baron Georges Eugène Haussmann, but the Marais was preserved. Marais means Swamp which it was once. It went from being a royal favorite under Henri IV, to ruin after the Revolution of 1789. Since it’s revival in the 1970's, it has become a center of artistic and cultural life. The Hôtel de Sens, a former royal residence, the remnants of a medieval fortress, the saint Paul village, St. Paul church, Hôtel de Sully- a Renaissance residence, the Place des Voges which is quite arguably Paris' most beautiful square. Rue des Rosiers - the main thoroughfare of the Marais' historic Jewish quarter.

FROM ST. GERMAIN TO MONTPARNASSE On the footsteps of Oscar Wilde and other writers... here on the le Left Bank, you will discover it's charming streets and cafes. Many writers and painters live in this area now as they did in the past. Some of the favorite haunts of Oscar Wilde and the generation of writers he inspired seem to be unchanged. The hotel where Wilde ended his days is still there. The "Deux Magots" and the "Flore", probably the best known cafes in town became the meeting place of Faulkner, Picasso, Joyce, Gide and Apollinaire. "Procope" is the oldest cafe in the world and was a favourite of Benjamin Franklin, Danton, Robespierre, Marat, Napoleon... Moving towards Montparnasse one passes by the house where Gertrud Stein lived and where many artists spent endless evenings. The Boulevard Montparnasse used to be the artists quarter in the 1920's. The famous la Coupole Brasserie still looks the same.

GOING AWAY FOR THE DAY- EXCURSIONS

2008-12-30T22:24:00.000-08:00

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES/ CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU/ CHATEAU CHANTILLY/ GIVERNY AND THE AMERICAN MUSEUM

Leaving Paris at about 9:30 am, back by 4 pm. 250 € - per group

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES The château and the gardens are absolute must-sees beyond Paris. Skip to the front of the general admission line at Versailles! Begin your day with a guided visit of the Great Royal Apartements, Hall of Mirrors and the Queen's Bedroom. Take a leisurely stroll around the Palace Park through some of the "Groves"... After a lunch break we will continue with a guided visit of the Trianon mansions which are vast lodges where the Sun King and Louis XVI liked to work and retire from court life. Take a discovery tour of the Queen's Hamlet where from 1783 Marie-Antoinette played as a shepherdess.

17 km away from Paris , Versailles is easy to reach by train or bus.

CHATEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU is the castle where all sovereigns since the Middle Ages lived, cherished by Kings, Queens, Emperors and Empresses who all left their trace. Today, the chateau offers visitors its architectural treasures, paintings and the thousands of fascinating and precious objects that it has preserved.

60 km south of Paris - about one hour by train.

CHATEAU DE CHANTILLY While the Louvre and Versailles are household names, many visitors to Paris are surprised to learn that just one hour north of Paris, you can find one of the most enchanting sites in France, the magnificent castle and stables of Chantilly. The monumental stables were commissioned in 1719 and once accommodated 240 horses. Now known as "Le Musée Vivant du Cheval", it is the most important museum ever devoted to the history of horses.

The Chantilly castle's history is long and impressive. The last owner collected one of the most extraordinary private collections of paintings, drawings, and illuminated manuscripts outside the Louvre. There are 1,000 Old Masters paintings, including works by Raphael, Ingres, Poussin and the largest single collection of 16th century royal portraits. Bibliophiles will want to linger in the castle's private library, which hosts fine illuminated manuscripts. The most celebrated of these are "The Very Rich Hours of the Duc de Berry- a parchement almanac that was commissioned in the 15th century.

50 km north of Paris - about one hour by train.

2008-12-30T22:17:00.000-08:00

GIVERNY GARDEN AND THE AMERICAN MUSEUM

The garden of the great painter Claude Monet is a place of memory, a place of creation. Seing this garden one remembers his research for transparence, his quest to capture colours on different backrounds, in the shade, or in full sun-light ... The Giverny watergarden is a place of stunning beauty where all shadows are calculated : in the center, infinite variations of the sky, on the borders, the thickness of the reflexion of the vegetation... To this universe in unstable shades, Monet surimposed a second creation, the series of Waterlilies.

In the spring, crocuses are near to the ground. In May, the irises rise a little higher. The roses and clematis in June play with the wind in the poppies. And in the Automn, the magnificent dahlias mingle with the masses of velveted asters.

The visit of Giverny can be profitably completed by the visit of the American Art Museum:

Over a century ago a colony of American artists settled in Giverny near the house of Claude Monet. Following their footsteps, the Musée d'Art Américain Giverny invites to discover American art from 1750 to nowadays, with new exhibitions every year.

Before returning to Paris one can contemplate two very beautiful Monet paintings of which one Waterlilies in the Vernon museum.

(By train it will take about one hour to go from Paris to Vernon and from there by shuttle bus to Giverny.)